framing out bulkheads


Lots of pictures in today’s installment. I will let the pictures lead the discussion as i frame out the bulkheads.

Here you can see BH2 located 2 feet back from the bow. at the top you will see a small cut off of the deck support beam that goes through the BH. i used the cut off to trace out what i need to cut off of the BH.

Here you can see BH4 which is 4 feet from the bow. You can also see that I cut my hand and bled onto the wood. I have bled on every boat I have ever made. If it is worth building it is worth bleeding on. and this now makes it my boat. I also remeasured everything while I was working on it again to make sure all was right.

I have already cut the bevels I need for the framing for the side support.

I cut and frame BH2. I use tightbond 3. it is the best that I have found. it has never failed me where gorilla glue and elmers wood glue have. that piece of wood laying on the BH2 is the bow filler where the sides come together 2′ in front of the BH2.

While BH2 dries i use scrap to frame out both of the Temp forms. here I just use drywall screws and elmers wood glue Boldly marking all center lines as I move along.

I pause and look around my basement shop. I am lucky. I actually have 3 places I build. this is the smallest and is my basement. I mainly use this area in the winter to work on outboards or small carpentry projects. I am a Technical Director for a Performing Arts Center and am in charge of a rather large wood and steel shop where I can cut very acurate bevels on my new saw stop table saw. and then I also have the Boat barn in the back yard which I will use for assembly and fiberglassing.

I have lost contact with Max W. can someone tell be what year this outboard is? it looks late 60’s to me. I got it for free and am giving it a tune up and will give it to my fathers’s latest project, the prototype build of the Darcy Bryn.

One more shot in case you might recognize it and be able to send me to the right exploded drawings. and now back to buldheads!

Here you can see I took off the clamps and used some mechanical fasteners AFTER the glue is dried. They aren’t there for add strength, although they must add a little. It is more so that if the glue joint fails I will be able to tell by looking at the joint before a catastrophic failure. I have never had one on a BH but it could always happen given the right accident. You will see I laid out the most important tool for adding screws to thin pieces of wood. my counter-sink.

This it BH4 framed up and drying.

here is the front half roughly assembled and lined up!

And Another view. Looking like a spicy meat ball ehh?

And one more shot.

so far 6 total hours of work. did i mention i work fast? i do work with wood for a living so there is that excuse.

Do you see something wrong? let me know please! Next is making the stern deck supports and framing out the transom and BH 11

Off to have a glass of grog,



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Bulkheads cut out

I cut out the bulkheads and bevelled the pieces for the sides. I didn’t get a chance to glue them on yet.

Here BH2 and BH4, the bow. Forward of BH2 is water tight, that is the smaller one. there will be a access plate in BH4 for storage. BH4 is about 31inches across. In front of BH2 it comes to a pointy bow 2′ forward. All BH are named after there foot station. On the deck side forward of BH2 I will put in an inspection port for the watertight compartment, but I will never use it for storage, just positive flotation.

Here is the temp forms 6 and 8. they make up the cockpit and are 36 inches across. the cockpit is 7′ long between BH4 and BH11. The bottom is 2 feet wide so plenty of room to sleep.

Here is the stern. that little thing is the transom. It is 6′-6″ from BH11 down to that little transom. isn’t it cute? there are deck support beams that run between the transom and BH11.

So far I have spent a total of 2hrs on the build.

so random notes.

I meant to say in my last post that the capacity is 550lbs, NOT 250lbs.

That is BC plywood in the pictures, all with the C side up. I looked through 40! sheets of ply to get these two sheets. By the time I am done with the bottom splice and the bulkheads and ready to buy more ply the stock should have changed over and I should be able to find some more nice pieces.

Please leave comments as it encourages me and insightful comments always help.

Next: Framing the bulkheads and notching them for the deck supports.

if you look at the third from last picture in the following link you can see how the decking will come together.

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Paulsboat starts

A rough sketch of the Paulsboat

There comes a day when we must start the boat. When that day comes for me I try to remind myself not to rush things. Check the measurements 3 or 4 times. sometimes 10. I also try to get one thing done a day, every day. even if it is only 15 minutes of setting something up to glue over night. Every little bit helps. So every few days I will post something about this build. I hope to have it in the water as soon as possible given my schedule. But lets just say that a May 12th launch is my goal.

Jim will not be selling plans until I have sailed the prototype. That is some incentive to get it done fast. Hopefully I will get all the kinks out before you build yours!

Paulsboat is a boat designed by Jim Michalak. I had some ideas for a expedition sailing canoe and got Jim to take the bait. The other designs out there look like a lot of fun. The Beth Sailing canoe is a work of art and Storer’s designs are elegant too. My family and I are very familiar with Jim’s work and I only go for a “work boat finish”. Not to say you couldn’t do a bunch or bright work with one of Jim’s boats, but he has a practical approach that saves time, money, and sweat when compared to other designers at little to no performance loss. This is my fourth build and I knew what I wanted. Very briefly, because I will cover this later in an article once the boat is no longer a proto-type, this is what paulsboat is:

15′-6″ long

36″ beam

Yawl rigged

peddle steering, easy to paddle

half-decked, two adults could sit in it for a day sail/paddle

7′ cockpit will allow a person to sleep in the bottom with a nice boom tent

The mizzen is in board

I am hoping it will be light, less then 100 lbs

positive flotation, in a knock down I dont think it would take on any water

550lbs load capacity, more then i asked for (edited, i said at first 250, oops!)

probably tippy and fast. jiffy reefing will be called for

I bought two pieces of BC exterior ply to get started. I have worked a lot with the stuff. For my purposes it works great. Of the 10 or so boats in my family we have never had a problem with home depot BC ply. I drew out the Bulkheads and found one or two questions and sent it on to Jim who responded right away. I also cut out all the lumber I will need to frame the bulkheads along the sides and tops.

Just looking at the outlines of the bulkheads drawn full I can tell this will be a rocket. 15’6″ x 36″ is going to be fast with Jim’s proven multi-chine design.

Next cutting out the Bulkheads and Glueing on the deck and side supports. More pictures to follow shortly.

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